There are certain food and drink products that – thanks to an array of factors, including historical significance, patronage by nobility and the wealthy elite, a notable lineage of tradition and sheer quality, flavor and distinction – possess a quality and almost mythic reputation for excellence. There are others which are prized for almost opposite attributes; a connection with the earth, with the practical and the utilitarian, with the homely and the humble.
Extra virgin olive oil is one which bridges both sides of this binary distinction. Prized for millennia for its flavor, aroma and sheer versatility, it’s a staple that underpins many of the great cuisines of Europe. Renowned for an array of health-giving benefits and recognized for its ability to express terroir, the expertise of its producer and a range of subtle factors that distinguish one oil from another, EVOO – especially examples from a relatively contemporary crop of luxury producers aimed at groundbreaking chefs and affluent consumers – continues to fascinate those in search of culinary perfection and new taste sensations.
As such, it should come as no real surprise that the role of olive oil sommelier – that is, a bonafide expert in the field, capable of selecting the finest extra virgin olive oils for UHNW individuals, their families, private chefs and Michelin-standard restaurants – has arisen in recent years. It’s a role that relies on a profound knowledge of caliber and provenance, reflecting a desire among the wealthy for the meeting point between supreme quality and absolute authenticity when it comes to gastronomic encounters.
The olive oil sommelier (akin to his or her equivalent in the world of fine wine) is a conduit between the source and the consumer, an arbiter of distinction and a trendsetter in all things EVOO, ensuring each encounter with a product goes above and beyond the everyday, and into the realms of the extraordinary.
We caught up with Carlo Attisano, one of Europe’s most respected sommeliers who has worked within the realm of fine wine and olive oil since undertaking his training in Italy in 2007. Having held a number of prestigious roles (including Deputy Chairman of the Italian Sommelier Foundation and the Worldwide Sommelier Foundation), Attisano is now Brand Manager for the Italian Sommelier Foundation, Global Brand Manager for Bellini Holding and Wine Director for Sirreti Residences. His work in wine has seen him win numerous international awards and work with the Vatican, deliver renowned lectures and collaborate with an impressive number of Michelin-starred restaurants, and he’s among a small number of experts applying his sommelier skills to the world of extra virgin olive oil – an area of profound passion and ongoing fascination for Attisano, and one in which he sees a growing enthusiasm for within the realm of his high net woth clientele.
In Attisano’s eyes, the links between EVOO and fine wines – especially in Italy, where both products have been a cornerstone of culture for thousands of years – are central to understanding their place at the tables of his esteemed clientele. As he says:
“In Italy, extra virgin olive oil has the same importance as our famous wines, and it represents one of the most important elements of the Mediterranean diet: you can find it in and alongside our dishes both for its essential use in seasoning dishes and for its enormous health benefits.”
Indeed, with the UHNW arguably being interested in health and longevity more so than ever before, extra virgin olive oil has taken on a new significance for the ultra-wealthy. It’s one of many products with a multifaceted appeal, and Attisano believes that the more we understand about EVOO’s health-giving properties, the more it’s going to appeal to those seeking high quality ingredients that offer more than a profound taste sensation.
“The growing interest in high-end olive oil has probably come about because it’s one of the milestones of the Mediterranean diet, and important studies have demonstrated the excellent health benefits of this product. It’s an antioxidant, a strong cholesterol reducer, it’s full of vitamins and it fights cardiovascular disease, diabetes and osteoporosis. Of course, and above all, it’s delicious.”
Understanding what makes an olive oil exceptional – again, as is the case when it comes to wine – is something which marries both professional expertise and training with one’s own instincts and senses. Attisano undertook the most prestigious EVOO course in the world via the Italian Sommelier Foundation in Rome (it’s the only institution in the field of olive oil that is directly sponsored and supported by the Presidency of the Italian Republic, and by some distance the most important in terms of training and certification), and has spent years garnering a world-beating depth of knowledge in olive oil with a particular focus on Italian producers.
This level of skill not only allows Attisano to champion the finest Italian olive oils to his extensive UHNW clientele, it provides him with real insight into identifying what separates truly artisanal products from premium mass market releases for the benefit of those seeking the exceptional. According to Attisano, this difference between the good and the great is something which permeates the entire production cycle:
“In addition to the love, care, and meticulous attention that artisanal EVOO producers use, when
compared to the industrial production processes, the most important differences are related to the production techniques themselves.
Artisanal EVOO is produced by hand-picking and selecting the best olives. To avoid oxidation, the olives are pressed at very low temperatures mere hours after harvesting, and (again, similarly to the world of fine wines) only locally-grown olives are used, with no other regions or countries’ olives permitted in the process.”
The similarities between the world of olive oil and fine wine continue through the subject of terroir – that notion of time and place, where subtle changes in climatic conditions, soil quality and other factors bring about often significant changes to the resulting product.
“Every distinct territory is fundamental in directing an EVOO in its olfactory and gustatory expression. Each terroir, thanks to its climatic exposure, offers a unique quality of oil that we can use differently depending on the dish we’re eating. Knowing the proper rules for pairing EVOO with food improves our daily lives and uniquely enhances what we eat – after all, extra virgin olive oil is not only healthy, but also a great pleasure for the palate.”
When asked to provide certain examples of terroirs or regions producing the most distinctive extra virgin olive oils in 2025, Attisano’s clear passion for Italian produce shines through without prejudice or preference.
“To be completely honest, every Italian region is capable of producing high-quality EVOO, and I can’t say which is better than another; it’s simply a matter of different tastes, textures and aromas that must be used with the right dishes. Regions with a lot of sun, for example, produce very fragrant and structured EVOOs (suitable for flavorful pasta or meat dishes), while those exposed to colder climates produce more delicate and elegant EVOOs suitable for seasoning fish or vegetables.”
And if pushed to highlight a singular region to watch?
“If I have to name just one region that impressed me, I’d probably say Umbria, a region capable of producing a wonderful EVOO with a balanced structure and wonderful aromas that can season many types of dishes to perfection.”
