Step out of Bank Station in the City of London, and you’re immediately surrounded by a potent combination of history, establishment and a decidedly Old World sense of luxury; after all, it’s from within this famed square mile that much of the modern world was born, and it remains one of the financial centres of the globe to this day.
The Royal Exchange building – a neo-romanesque jewel in central London’s glittering crown – looms over Threadneedle Street. While it no longer operates as part of the city’s banking infrastructure, it makes fine use of its striking architecture and vast interior to house an array of high-end stores and places to enjoy the capital’s rapidly-evolving gastronomic scene. Chief among the places to while away the hours with some seriously impressive dishes and cocktails is Engel; a mezzanine restaurant and cocktail venue located on the first floor terrace of the Royal Exchange, widely regarded as one of the best places to enjoy a leisurely brunch in this part of the city.
Engel is the first solo venture of Des Gunewardena (one of the two ‘D’s of the famed D&D restaurant group), launched in the Autumn of 2023 to considerable and ongoing acclaim. It’s not hard to see why it’s been so immediately embraced: envisioned as a ‘speakeasy’ and inspired by 1920’s Weimar Berlin, it hits an assortment of high notes that envelopes guests in a thoroughly cosy, immersive atmosphere that’s hard to pull oneself away from. Indeed, once sat on one of the plush banquettes that run along the terraces lined with neoclassical architectural features, and once the Champagne (including hallowed labels such as Krug Grande Cuvée, served in classic coupe glasses) starts flowing, it’s exactly the kind of place in which many, many hours could be spent very happily indeed.
While one can enjoy a vaguely-Germanic all day menu or a pristine afternoon tea at Engel, it’s the Marlene Brunch held every Saturday – and inspired by silver screen legend Marlene Dietrich – which is the major pull of the restaurant’s roster of offerings. It’s genuinely intended as and succeeds in being a real event and the highlight of any weekend, not least in the run-up to the Christmas period, where anybody in and around Central London is surely happy to retreat from the hustle and bustle of the streets outside for some time.
Living up to its namesake in style and iconic class, the Marlene Brunch features lighting that is comfortably low and sultry, and the addition of live jazz singers and pianists (and the occasional burlesque performance, so I’m told) adds to the transportative ambience. The cocktails, mixed at a beautifully backlit gold cocktail bar in the centre of the terrace, range from tried-and-tested classics (Negronis, Margaritas and Cosmopolitans are present and correct) to house specials which elevate the 1920s Cabaret theme to whole new heights. I was particularly impressed by the brilliantly-named Der Prinz Von Berlin (lemon verbena vodka, green apple cordial, supasawa and manzana verde), and the whisky and apple-based Der Schmuggler, which is served in a bonafide Teutonic drinking horn for no shortage of added theatricality.
And so, to the food. At £45 for two courses and £50 for three (unlimited Prosecco, bellinis and spritzes can be added for an additional £30), the Marlene Brunch menu is justifiably generous – this is a genuinely unhurried dining experience, designed to satisfy and delight in equal measures. Alongside brunch classics including eggs benedict and royale, burgers and steak and egg combos, there’s plenty of less-expected additions to the menu that showcase Engel’s dedication to luxury and attention to detail.
Chefs Samantha Williams and Lorena Tomassi (the kitchen at Engel is renowned for being run by an all-female team) bring serious pan-global panache to proceedings. The lobster roll, inspired by the Maine classic, is pillowy, sweet and stacked with tender cuts of crustacean. The roast sea bass with samphire, cauliflower puree and yuzu is a stunning piece of east-meets-west fish cookery which absolutely deserves a place on an urbane brunch menu, and lighter dishes such as the salmon tartare work brilliantly with the sparkling wine that just keeps coming.
Buttermilk chicken with waffles and a full veggie breakfast veer closer to traditional brunch diner fare – albeit elevated both visually and as regards flavour and texture – and the sweeter side of the menu boasts a duo of homemade cakes, brioche French toast and pancakes with Black Forest fruits and a boozy Kirsch sauce. Make no mistake, Williams and Tomassi are clearly a duo with a desire to feed and to feed well, adding real opulence and decadence that befits the restaurant’s surroundings. All of this is further enhanced by the attentiveness of the staff who – credit where credit’s due – do a fabulous job of keeping glasses topped up, answering questions and making recommendations, all while dressed in elegant clothing that evokes a timeless sense of class.
As the menu suggests, Engel isn’t an exercise in authenticity, nor does it pretend to be. I’ve no idea what diners in Weimar Germany and Secessionist Austria were eating, and I can’t imagine the dishes served in Christopher Isherwood’s version of Berlin would particularly stand up to modern scrutiny. All this is besides the point: Engel has correctly identified that its location on the terraces of the Royal Exchange calls for an approach to luxury that’s somewhat out of step with much of London’s restaurant scene, and it makes no apologies for it. There’s no fussy minimalism here, no claims of rusticity or ultramodern takes on trending gastronomy. This is a heady blend of the laid-back and the luxurious, both very serious where it needs to be and a whole lot of fun regardless.
Reservations for Engel can be made here.
